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Food: Temples and Tranquility
February 18th, 2004

Food: Kung Hee Fat Choy
January 19th, 2004

Food: At a Simmer
December 11th, 2003

Food: Trading Places
November 25th, 2003

Food: Comfort Me with Apples
October 29th, 2003

Food: Frittering Around
September 19th, 2003

Food: Keen on Peaches
August 14th, 2003

Food: Amazing Maize
July 19th, 2003

Food: Tempting Tomatoes
July 1st, 2003

Food: Palatable Thoughts
June 13th, 2003

Food: Eating on the Upbeat
April 21st, 2003

Food: Succulent Shrimp
April 1st, 2003

Food: The Unordinary Oyster
February 23rd, 2003

Food: Clams 101
January 20th, 2003

Food: Comforting Chowder
January 5th, 2003

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Comfort Me with Apples

Comfort Me with Apples

Joan Phelps

As a symbol of earthly and heavenly love, the apple is perhaps one of nature's most perfect creations.

The first orchard in this country was planted on what is now known as Boston's Beacon Hill. The seeds were carried from England in the pockets of those first settlers in the 1600s. We all know the legend of Johnny Appleseed, whose real name was John Chapman. Chapman spent most of his life planting orchards in the newly settled colonies. In time, these orchards spread from coast to coast and played a big part in the life and culture of America - hence the expression, " as American as apple pie".

Botanists tell us that apples descend from trees native to South West Asia. In fact, whole forests of ancient apple trees are still thriving in areas of Kazakhstan near the Tian Shan Mountains. Transported on the Silk Road caravans, they made their way to the New World via the Mediterranean and Europe.

By the end of the 1800s, there were thousands of varieties of apple being cultivated. Commercialization has reduced that number considerably. Today's market, catering to sweet-craving taste buds, offer mainly familiar but often lackluster red and golden Delicious, Mc Intosh and Granny Smith, year round, Varieties such as Gala, Braeburn and Jonagold are more recent market entrants.

Perhaps the best newcomer is the Braeburn. This crisp, juicy apple is great both raw and cooked. For eating out of hand, the Gala and Braeburn are unequaled. [Unless you happen to be in New England in the Fall and can find Macouns, my all-time favorite]. For cooking, the Australian Granny Smith is my top pick, as it retains its texture and juiciness in pies and cobblers.

It is in the Fall however, that apples are at their peak and most plentiful. I usually gather up a few grandchildren for a day of picking and picnicking on one of Virginia's mountain top orchards. Armed with a pole picker, a device that allows you to reach the highest branches, you can quickly fill a basket.

A truly great apple has a perfumed aroma that distinguishes it from a mediocre one. Since they continue to ripen after picking, take care to store them in a cool, dark place. Resist the temptation to arrange them like a still life in a pretty bowl, and instead, put them in the refrigerator if you're not using them right away.

The 19th century adage," an apple a day keeps the doctor away" is not without validity. Apples contain pectin and flavinoids, both containing properties that cut cholesterol. Studies have concluded that apples help build resistance to colds and respiratory disease and have a calming effect on the nerves.

There are more recipes for apples desserts than any other. My own files contain hundreds; pies, cobblers, crisps, apples baked with raisins, nuts and cinnamon, chunky applesauce, apples sautéed with onions to accompany pork chops, French apple custard tarts, Waldorf salads and refreshing sorbets. Below is my very favorite crisp recipe:


Apple-Almond Crisp


2 pounds apples, peeled, cored and cut into ½ inch slices
1 1/3 cups sugar
1 cup flour, spooned into cup
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
2/3 cup chopped or slivered almonds
½ cup melted butter
¾ teaspoon vanilla


Spread apples in a buttered shallow oven casserole. Combine sugar, flour and cinnamon in a small bowl. Stir in the almonds. Mix the melted butter and the vanilla together. Add to the almond mixture and toss with a fork to make crumbly. Distribute over the apples. Bake in a preheated 400* oven for 30-40 minutes. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.

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