Chowder ( chou'der, n. [ Fr. Chaudiere, pot], a dish consisting of fresh fish, clams, etc., stewed with vegetables, often with milk. (Webster's)
Chowder's history is not as well defined as other culinary traditions. The first written recipe did not appear until the mid- 1800's, although the word chowder is found in diaries and journals before that time. Chowder undoubtedly originated in a fishing community like Cedar Key. The preparation and content usually improvised according to available seasonal ingredients. In France, fishermen would toss a portion of the days catch into the chaudiere, a large 3- legged iron cooking pot. Many food writers and food historians believe the word chowder is derived from this French cauldron. However, the 16th century English word jowter, which means fishmonger, is also a candidate.
Native Americans of the Micmac tribe may have prepared the first chowders in North America. New England clam chowder is perhaps the most well known. Its preparation often provoked heated debate. In 1939, a purist or is that Puritan? - Introduced a bill to the Maine state legislature making it a statutory and culinary offence to introduce tomatoes into the traditional chowder recipe. Chowders by their very nature encourage improvisation, its many variations depending on the region producing it. Chowders can be thick and creamy or thin and clear, white or red, yellow or beige. It is meant to be an unpretentious dish, accompanied by a crusty country loaf to mop up the broth, although some people, especially Downeasters, prefer crackers crumbled into the bowl. Cod was perhaps the first fish to be used in chowders, but any fish can be substituted. Grouper, snapper and redfish all make delicious chowder, their firm flesh holding its shape in the simmering broth. Most chowders share three common ingredients, salt pork or bacon, sautéed onions and potatoes. From that base any combination of fish or shellfish can be added. Good stock is essential to the flavor and although it is the fiddliest part of the preparation, it is well worth the effort. Stock freezes well, so while you're at it cook up a large batch, Short of time cooks can use bottled clam juice and/or chicken broth, which is bland enough to blend well with seafood. In the cool winter months, a bowl of steaming chowder soothes and satisfys. Whether baked, cooked at a slow simmer or assembled quickly, chowders are full of nourishing vitamins and minerals. After the overindulgences of the holiday season, they are palliatives for an overworked digestive system.
New England Style Baked Seafood Chowder Serves 4 2 carrots, cut into ½" rounds
1 rib of celery, cut into ½' pieces
3 potatoes, peeled and cut into 1" cubes
2 onions, chopped
Salt
3 peppercorns
1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill or ¼ teaspoon dried
1 clove
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups boiling water [I use an 8oz. Bottle of clam juice as part of this liquid]
1 ½ pounds thick fish fillets, cut into 1 ½" pieces
½ cup of chopped clams
6 Tablespoons of dry white wine
2/3 cup light cream
4 teaspoons flour
4 teaspoons chopped parsley Heat oven to 375*
In a large ovenproof pot, combine carrots, celery, onions, potatoes salt and peppercorns, clove, dill, bayleaf and butter. Add boiling stock [water and/or clam juice], stir well, bake covered for 40 minutes. Remove peppercorns and clove [For ease of removal tie the peppercorns and clove into a cheesecloth bag]. Add fish, clams and wine, bake an additional 20 minutes. Remove from oven. In bowl whisk together the cream and flour until smooth. Whisk in a little of the hot broth. Over low heat, add the warmed cream to the chowder, stirring constantly but gently so the fish pieces don't break up. Heat until the chowder thickens. Do not let it boil. Garnish with the chopped parsley before serving. Fish Stock 4 pounds of fish frames (non- oily fish is best), cut into 2" pieces, rinsed clean of any blood
½ cup dry white wine
About 2 quarts of water
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
4 stalks of celery, thinly sliced
2 medium carrots, thinly sliced 2 bay leaves
¼ cup of roughly chopped parsley, preferably Italian broadleaf
6 to 8 sprigs of fresh thyme or a generous pinch of dried
2 Tablespoons of black peppercorns
Kosher or sea salt In an 8 quart stockpot, combine bones, wine and enough water to cover. Bring to boil, skimming off the white foam that accumulates on top of the stock. Reduce heat to simmer and add onions, celery, carrot, bay leaves, parsley, thyme, peppercorns, Stir them into the liquid, adding more water if the ingredients are not covered by liquid. Simmer gently for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir again and allow to steep for 10 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh strainer. Season lightly with salt. Chill as quickly as possible. Cover completely when cool. This will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or will freeze well for up to 2 months |
