With billboards proclaiming Cedar Key as the USA's # 1 producer of farm raised clams, I thought a short course on clams would be appropriate for those among us who are somewhat in the dark about these succulent coastal delicacies. Cedar Key's popular mollusk, the clam, is actually a member of one of three species, the hard clam, venus mercenaria, the soft shell mya arenaria and the surf clam, spisula solidissama. The largest member of the hard clam species, variously called quahog, mahogany clam or black quahog, is the type farmed in Cedar Key. Popular market names such as cherrystone and little neck refer to the two sizes of quahogs. [The word quahog or quahaug is derived from the Wampanoag Indian word poquahock]. The cherrystone clam with a diameter of 3 " is also referred to as a chowder clam. Soft shells are popularly known as steamers, the surf clam as skimmers, which usually end up in canned chowders. West Coast varieties differ somewhat from Atlantic and Gulf Coast clams. The most popular being the geoduck, followed by razor clams and the tiny butter clams called moneyshells since the Indians used them for money. Clams from both coasts are sold live and in the shell. Sold by the dozen, by count or the pound, they are available year round. When buying clams be sure they are free from cracks and are tightly closed. Tapped lightly, the shell should close if open, if it doesn't, discard it. Live clams will keep well up to 7 days in the refrigerator, stored in open containers that allow them to breathe. Chucked clams will keep well for a week in a sealed container covered in their own broth. Clams freeze well in the shell for up to 6 months. Cedar Key`s clams are remarkably clean. I used to scrub them one at a time under cold running water, a tedious and as I recently learned unnecessary process. Eve Robinson of Robinson's Seafood says to just put them in the sink or a large pot covered with cold salted water for about an hour or so. The clams will dispel their sand and after a quick rinse, they are ready for the pot. The best clam preparation is simply to steam them, using approximately 1 cup of liquid for 2 pounds of clams. I use a mixture of water and wine, adding a couple of chopped garlic cloves or some chopped green onions, a pinch of thyme or red pepper flakes or grated fresh ginger. Bring the liquid to a boil; add the clams and steam at a simmer until the clams open, about 8 – 10 minutes depending on the size. I then remove the clams and let the liquid cook down a bit to concentrate the flavor. Pour this over the clams and serve hot. To me, clams are one of nature's best offerings from the sea. The Pilgrims called them " those little treasures hid in the sand". The Scots have a word "clamjamfry" which loosely translated means odds and ends, castoffs or chaff. The Wampanoags took the castoff shells and made beads from the purple part of the lining, making much wampum in the process. Cedar Key's "clamjamfry" are shells cast in silver and sold at the Historical Society museum as attractive jewelry. At the risk of becoming too clamorsome, I'll leave you with an old Delaware recipe for clam pie. Seaford Clam Pie Slice a quarter pound of lean pork [bacon] and fry out the fat.Cut 2 dozen clams in halves, being careful to save the liquor.Cut 1 onion and 6 potatoes into small pieces. Add clams, onion and potato to the hot pork fat. Cook a few minutes, and then pour in the clam liquor. Cook slowly until the potatoes are done, adding a bit of water if necessary. Season with salt and pepper. Make a rich pie dough. Roll thin and line bottom and sides of shallow baking dish, pour the cooked clam mixture into the pie shell. Cover with upper crust and bake in hot oven until the crust is brown. | 