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Food: Temples and Tranquility
February 18th, 2004

Food: Kung Hee Fat Choy
January 19th, 2004

Food: At a Simmer
December 11th, 2003

Food: Trading Places
November 25th, 2003

Food: Comfort Me with Apples
October 29th, 2003

Food: Frittering Around
September 19th, 2003

Food: Keen on Peaches
August 14th, 2003

Food: Amazing Maize
July 19th, 2003

Food: Tempting Tomatoes
July 1st, 2003

Food: Palatable Thoughts
June 13th, 2003

Food: Eating on the Upbeat
April 21st, 2003

Food: Succulent Shrimp
April 1st, 2003

Food: The Unordinary Oyster
February 23rd, 2003

Food: Clams 101
January 20th, 2003

Food: Comforting Chowder
January 5th, 2003

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The Unordinary Oyster

The Unordinary Oyster

Joan Phelps

The old caveat that warns us not to eat an oyster unless an "R" appears in the month can be filed in the "old wives tale" category. Like many adages, this advice was sound in the days of no refrigeration, when transport and storage was problematical.

Since oysters breed in the warmer waters of May through August, it is logical to assume that they are not in their prime after spawning. They are considered at their best in the fall and winter months.

In the 17th century, Jonathan Swift wrote, " He was a bold man that first eat an oyster". Bold indeed, and definitely on to something. Oysters are endowed with powerful qualities, perhaps the most touted, their aphrodisiac potential. On the practical side, they are full of vitamins and minerals, and contain more phosphorus than any other food source. Since phosphorus is "brain food", Louis XI commanded his advisors to consume a certain amount each day to keep them mentally alert. Cicero swallowed a few to enhance his discourse.

The shell middens that abound in the Cedar Key area are tangible proof that Native Americans consumed vast quantities of these bivalves and passed on their importance as a food source to the early settlers. The Greeks served them at banquets; the Romans imported them from colder climes packed in snow. Ancient wall paintings attest to their degustation at many a bacchanal.

Found in coastal waters all over the world, the oyster is a product of the waters they grow in. Optimum conditions are those tidal areas where rivers run into the sea. Filter feeders, an oyster can ingest 100 gallons of water daily. Therefore, the waters` salinity, mineral content and nutrient value will contribute to and determine the flavor, texture and plumpness.

There are six main varieties of oyster, the Pacific, Olympia, European Flat, Kumamoto and the Eastern, but they are usually marketed under the name of the waters where they spawn.

In Cedar Key, oysters are farmed in a controlled environment much like that used centuries ago by the Chinese, the worlds first oyster farmers. In 1991, a federally funded project turned traditional oyster fishermen into oyster farmers. Like the clam industry, oyster farming is achieved by " planting " seed oysters on submerged coastal leases. We can enjoy the harvest at its peak. A fresh oyster will last unshelled in a refrigerator for three days with a wet cloth covering them. Shucked oysters should be plump and creamy colored and smell of the fresh salt air.

How you eat an oyster is a matter of personal taste. Purists think a squeeze of lemon is all that is needed before it is slipped down the throat. Others prefer a dash of hot pepper or mignonette sauce. Oysters should be cooked lightly or hardly at all whether fried, baked, scalloped or stewed. They are one of nature`s finest offerings. My version of scalloped oysters follows.

Scalloped Oysters

1 quart shucked oysters
¼ cup onion, finely chopped
½ cup butter, melted
1-teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1-tablespoon parsley, chopped
2 cups crumbled saltines or Ritz crackers
½ cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon dry sherry

Preheat oven to 350* Drain oysters, reserving liquor. Melt butter in skillet. Sauté onion until softened but not browned. Add salt, lemon juice, Worcestershire, parsley and cracker crumbs. Mix together well. In buttered casserole, layer crumbs and oysters. Mix together the oyster liquor and cream and pour this over the casserole contents. Bake 40 minutes. Serve immediately.

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