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February 18th, 2004

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December 11th, 2003

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November 25th, 2003

Food: Comfort Me with Apples
October 29th, 2003

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September 19th, 2003

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August 14th, 2003

Food: Amazing Maize
July 19th, 2003

Food: Tempting Tomatoes
July 1st, 2003

Food: Palatable Thoughts
June 13th, 2003

Food: Eating on the Upbeat
April 21st, 2003

Food: Succulent Shrimp
April 1st, 2003

Food: The Unordinary Oyster
February 23rd, 2003

Food: Clams 101
January 20th, 2003

Food: Comforting Chowder
January 5th, 2003

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Succulent Shrimp

Succulent Shrimp

Joan Phelps

The most popular seafood in this country, hands down, [or is it heads off?], is shrimp. Americans eat more of this crustacean than any other nation in the world.

Most shrimp is sold frozen because of its perishable nature, although coastal dwellers usually enjoy it fresh from Gulf waters. Sold in "green" headless form, raw and unpeeled, it should be firm and translucent with a distinct clean smell of the sea. I consider this the hallmark of all varieties of truly fresh seafood.

The word shrimp is used to define a diminutive person, perhaps because its origins lie in the British word shrimpe, which means puny. The English call all shrimp, prawns, but not all prawns are shrimp. They are actually crawfish. In an attempt at clarification, the United Nations Food and Agricultural Organization defines shrimp as the species harvested from salt water, prawns being the species harvested from fresh water. Chinese shrimp farmers, whose catch is harvested in both waters, are now confused by this inscrutable edict.

Types of shrimp vary in color and texture. Penaeus aztecus is the species most common in Florida. It is the Gulf of Mexico brown, sometimes called "grooved' by fishermen. There is also the Gulf white and pink, the latter being the most prized. Tiger shrimp, which comes mostly from Thailand or Indonesia, are one of the largest species growing up to 12 inches. Royal Red, another popular variety, is found in deep water off the continental shelf and in the Gulf and Southern Atlantic.

Shrimp is sold according to count, the size determining the price. As a rule, jumbo will yield 15 or less per pound, large will be between 15 and 23, medium 23 to 30 and small will give you up to 35 shrimp per pound. One pound of shrimp will yield between ½ and ¾ pounds of cooked meat. Allow at least 1-½ pounds when buying it raw to serve 4 people.

Methods of cooking shrimp are about as diverse as the types available. Regardless of the method used, it is imperative to cook them briefly, only until they lose their translucence and turn pink. One might note that the Swedish word for shrimp is skrympa, which means shrink. This is what will happen to shrimp cooked over high heat. It will quickly shrink into rubbery curls.

Peeling shrimp is a tedious, messy task. Removing the vein is a matter of aesthetics. The vein is actually not a vein, but the lower end of the shrimp's digestive tract, a fact that I would prefer not to have known! It is tasteless and harmless, however. If it is thick and black, I remove it, if it's thin and white, I don't bother.

Cooked shrimp with the shell on is considered the most flavorful. Steaming it is unquestionably the best method for maximum flavor and tenderness. I use one of those collapsible steamer baskets that fit inside a deep saucepan. Bring a small amount of water to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer and set the steamer basket, which holds a single layer of shrimp, into the pot. Cover it tightly with a lid and steam until they turn bright pink. Size will determine how long, medium usually taking 4 to 5 minutes, larger shrimp up to 6 minutes.

A more traditional method is to bring 1 quart of water to a boil [using 1 quart for each pound of shrimp], add 2 tablespoons of salt if unshelled and 1 tablespoon if shelled. Add the shrimp and bring the water to a second boil, cover with a lid and immediately remove the pot from the heat. Let sit for 5 to 8 minutes, depending again on the size of the shrimp, until it is bright pink. Drain and cool immediately under cold running water.

Shrimp is an excellent source of protein and although high in cholesterol, it contains the heart- healthy Omega-3 and is low in saturated fat. Although it lends itself to all manner of preparation, the most popular is still simply steamed and served with a dipping sauce. I give you one of my favorites from the Orient and a Greek recipe using feta cheese.

Oriental Sweet and Sour Sauce for Shrimp


1/3-cup pineapple juice
2 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1-tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
1-teaspoon catsup
1-teaspoon cornstarch

Combine all the ingredients in a small saucepan and stir over medium heat until it comes to a boil and is blended. Serve warm or chilled. Will keep for one week in the refrigerator.

Greek Shrimp with Feta


Greek Tomato Sauce


3 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
5 ripe tomatoes core and coarsely chop [4½ cups]
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 teaspoons oregano
1 cup dry white wine
1 8-ounce can tomato sauce
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch of ground allspice
Salt and pepper to taste

Add olive oil to skillet, sauté onion and garlic until transparent, and add the tomatoes, parsley and oregano. Simmer covered until the tomatoes are soft, about 25 minutes. Add remaining ingredients and cook 20 minutes more.

Mix 2 cups of the sauce with ½ cup of clam juice or fish stock. Place 1-½ pounds of shrimp in their shells [ the Greeks don't bother to peel their shrimp] in the bottom of a frying pan or casserole. Cover with the sauce and top with ½ pound of crumbled Feta cheese. Place on high heat and bring to a simmer covered. Cook until shrimp are done, between 7 and 10 minutes. Stir in the cheese before serving. This can also be baked in a 450* oven for 15 minutes or until hot and bubbly.

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