Reading the history of certain foods, is like reading a novel full of mystery, intrigue, deception and unsavory characters. The story of the tomato is somewhat like that. Brought to the Old World by Portuguese and Spanish explorers in the 16th century, the tomato was viewed with great suspicion. Voluptuously round, bursting with juices, its taste both sweet and acidic, the tomato was considered by many to be poisonous and capable of leading one down the wrong path. This prejudice continued into the 19th century when this "love apple" became known as the tomato. The first tomatoes were cultivated in the pre-Columbian civilizations of Central and South America. They probably appeared as weeds in the fields of maize. The type introduced to the Europeans around 1596 were yellow in color, hence called pomo d'oro or golden apple. In Spain, the name was pomo dei moro or Moor's apple, which in turn became pomme d'amour in France and the love apple in Britain. Since tomatoes flourished in the sun, they were successfully cultivated in the Mediterranean regions of France, Spain and Italy. The latter, initially used them as purees or to garnish a dish. The church of Rome considered these sauces suspect because they glorified a dish, leading to the deadly sin of gluttony. Today, Italian cuisine is largely based on this sinful vegetable. For me, the tomato is the essence of summer. A vine-ripened, sun-warmed tomato picked on a hot summer day, was my first taste of sensual pleasure. During the second World War, Victory gardens were established in everyone's' back yard with patriotic fervor. Our neighbor in Chappaqua, New York quickly dug up his tennis court and planted the largest garden in the neighborhood. I watched with an 8 year old's eyes as those plants flourished in the sun until the red tomatoes were ready for picking. One day while everyone was hammock bound, I slipped through the fence, picked the largest one I could find and stole into the woods behind to enjoy it in solitude. The next day, I went armed with the salt shaker from our kitchen. My life of crime ended when my Mother questioned me about my juice-stained shirt. To this day, I can remember the exquisite taste of Mr. Carr's tomatoes. Botanists say the tomato is actually a fruit, and there is a veritable fruit salad of tomatoes in most markets with names like plum, cherry, grape and pear, but in spite of its shape, the tomato is really a vegetable. There are 4 main types of tomato, the garden variety, the beefsteak, the Italian plum and the tiny cherry. The garden is usually bright red and thanks to hydroponics, available year round. Often imported from Holland or Israel, they are a poor excuse for a tomato, perfect in form but absolutely tasteless. The beefsteak is the largest tomato and unfortunately tends to be mealy most of the time. Italian tomatoes and cherry tomatoes are the only ones I purchase out of season. Both retain their flavor and have endless uses. Italian tomatoes make the best sauce and the cherry tomatoes can just be popped into ones mouth or stuffed with crabmeat to make a tasty hors d'oeuvres. Summer's vine-ripened tomatoes need little embellishment. At their peak in August, they are bursting with juice and flavor. Thick slices on well buttered fresh bread with a dash of salt and pepper is about as close as one can get to pure pleasure. The tomato is one of natures most adaptable vegetables, whether used in salads, sauces, aspics, pureed or made into delicious soup. My favorite summer recipes using tomatoes, are gazpacho, ratatouille and salads using a medley of different varieties and colors. Simply sliced and layered with mozzarella cheese, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with fresh herbs, is a classic Italian presentation. A large fresh tomato stuffed with tuna or chicken salad makes a wonderful light summer meal. Buy tomatoes that smell like tomatoes[take a good sniff at the stem end]. They should also have good color and taut skin that gives a bit when gently pressed. In farmers markets, you might find heirloom varieties that have been grown from seeds that have been passed down for generations. These purebreds come in some lovely colors, the yellow being sweeter and less acidic than the red, Never refrigerate a tomato. Store them stem side up in indirect light at room temperature. Buy lots, so you can make a nice marinara sauce to enjoy in the winter months. To peel a tomato, first core the bottom end with an X, plunge it into boiling water for about 30 seconds, then into ice water to cool briefly and the skin should slip right off.
Ratatouille
About 6 tablespoons of olive oil
1 medium onion, cut in half and thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 green bell pepper, sliced lengthwise 1/4 inch thick
1 yellow bell pepper, sliced lengthwise 1/4 inch thick
1 medium eggplant, sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 cup thinly sliced mushrooms
salt and pepper to taste
1/3 cup of lightly packed fresh basil, chopped
3 large tomatoes, halved lengthwise. then sliced crosswise 1/3 inch thick
2/3 cup grated fresh parmesan cheese
Preheat oven 400* in a large heavy skillet. Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil over moderate heat, add onion, garlic, bell peppers, eggplant and mushrooms. Sauté, tossing and adding more oil if necessary until the vegetables soften, about 15 minutes. Don't rush this, as you want them to retain their shape. Season with salt and pepper, add the basil and stir in the tomatoes. Cook for about 2 minutes longer, then transfer the mixture to a large oval gratin dish. Sprinkle the cheese on top, cover the dish with foil and bake for 30 minutes until the vegetables are tender. Serve hot, room temperature or cold. This can be prepared 2-3 days ahead and refrigerated. Leftovers are good in omelets or over pasta.
A delicious tomato "jam" to serve with grilled fish is made by combining 3 medium tomatoes that have been peeled and chopped with a small chopped onion, 1/3 cup of apple jelly, 3 tablespoons of cider vinegar, 2 tablespoons of chopped tarragon leaves. 1/2 teaspoon of hot pepper flakes and 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil over moderately low heat and cook, stirring frequently until thick for about 30 minutes. Cool to room temperature. |
